Small things can make a big difference.
- carla6727
- 6 days ago
- 11 min read
“Small Space” and Balcony gardening is more limited than gardening with access to land, but these small spaces add up and can make a huge difference.
Most of us know that bees are effective, and important pollinators. They pollinate both our crops and wild plants, providing us with one-third of the food we eat. The natural food web would collapse without pollinators helping wild plants to produce berries, fruits, seeds, and other edible parts. Unfortunately, pollinators worldwide are in decline, losing numbers to threats like pesticide poisoning, habitat loss, and disease. The good news is that no one is too small to help. All our actions add up. Urban development often leaves wildlife without pathways to safely move between habitats, but we can decrease habitat fragmentation by growing plants that bridge the distance between suitable habitats. Blooming trees, shrubs, and wildflowers provide pollinators with nectar and pollen to eat. Native oaks alone support more than 550 different species of butterflies and moths, but just because you don’t have room for an oak tree, doesn’t mean you can’t make a difference. If every household in the United States planted one pollinator plant, it would provide more than 120 million additional plants for habitat. Even very small spaces can help wildlife by providing rest, food, water, and places to hide. Elevated habitats, such as balconies and roofs, can provide space for birds and insects, while ground-level habitats benefit amphibians and small mammals too. By providing local wildlife with native plants, we can increase their chances of survival. Additionally, plants help reduce stormwater runoff, regulate air temperature, and purify the air, so add a few plants to your space (especially native plants) and bring some nature home.
Balcony Load Limits
If you have big plans for your balcony, figure out how much weight your deck or balcony can hold before you start piling in large pots of soil. Wooden balconies may have different load capacities compared to those made of steel or concrete. Older balconies or those with unique designs might have reduced load-bearing capabilities due to wear and tear. Regular upkeep ensures that the balcony maintains its structural integrity over time. Look for signs your balcony might be under too much stress: A noticeable dip or sag in the structure, Cracks or Splits in the flooring, supports, or connection points, Creaking or Unusual Noises when weight is applied, and/or Water Pooling, which could be an indication of potential structural issues. If you observe any of these signs, reduce the load immediately and consult a professional for an assessment.
When planning container gardens on a balcony, stay within your balcony's load-bearing capacity . Residencial balconies typically support 50-100 pounds per square foot. Saturated garden soil weighs 75-100 pounds per cubic foot. Distribute weight evenly to avoid overloading areas, positioning heavier planters near load bearing walls and medium containers evenly. Avoid permanent heavy fixtures unless your balcony is specifically designed for them. Consider using lightweight potting mixes with 50-60% perlite, pumice, or vermiculite to reduce container weight. (for more information on calculating balcony load limits: https://urbangreenthumbs.com/container-garden-soil-balcony-weight/ )
Selecting Plant Containers
While standard round pots are easy to find, they aren’t the most efficient use of space; Square pots fit side-by-side with less gap, and planting several plants in a long, rectangular planter may be better than grouping several smaller individual pots. (The smaller the container, the faster the soil will dry out.) Multiple plants can be combined in one pot of appropriate size, but make sure plants sharing a pot have the same water needs and are getting their preferred amount of light. (Right Plant, Right Place)
The pot you select should fit your plant’s needs while allowing for excellent drainage. Choose pots based on the type of plant that’ll go into them: If they’ll become larger plants, they’ll have bigger root systems so they’ll need a deeper and wider container than plants which might have a shallow root system. A plant in too small of a container, won’t have room for the roots to grow and it may need to be watered more often.
Larger pots are less sensitive to environmental changes in temperature and require less frequent watering, but are heavier, take up more floor space, and may be more difficult to move. Keep Balcony Load Limits in mind, concrete and clay pots are heavy. If there are weight restrictions, consider plastic, fiberglass, or other lightweight containers.
Determine what plants will thrive in your space by figuring out your hardiness zone. Then select plants in your hardiness zone based on how much light your garden space will receive as well as any space, water, and weight restrictions. Trying to grow a plant outside its preferred environment is asking for trouble, so choose the “Right Plant” for the “Right Place”.
Assessing Sunlight Conditions
How many hours of direct sunlight does the area receives daily?
Full Sun: Areas that get 6 or more hours of sunlight. Choose sun-loving plants like tomatoes, peppers, alliums, rosemary, thyme, lavender, sunflowers, asters and sedums.
Partial Shade: Areas with 3 to 6 hours of sunlight. Consider plants like Blueberries, Huckleberries, broccoli, peas, heuchera, astilbes, violets, etc .
Full Shade: Areas receiving less than 3 hours of sunlight. Select shade-tolerant plants such as beets, chard, lettuce, ferns, hostas, bleeding heart (Dicentra), etc.
Maximize your space
Use window boxes and deck rail planters to expand the growing space.
Make use of vertical space by using hanging planters, and trellises.
Grow taller sun loving plants like tomatoes and cucumbers where they can shade plants such as lettuce, spinach and peas that prefer cooler areas. Basil does well next to tomatoes. (Plant next to taller crops either in separate containers or in the same container.)
Succession planting is another way to get the most produce out of your space using the technique of staggering the planting of crops in your garden or mixing plants that mature at different times. For example, by planting a row lettuce one day, then planting another row of the same crop a few weeks later, the harvest time is extended by a couple weeks for each row planted. You can also prolong the harvest by sowing leaf crops very thickly and thinning them for salad greens. Thinning allows the remaining plants room to grow, and they can be thinned again each time they get crowded. Grow green onions, leeks, beets and lettuce this way. Early harvested vegetables, such as spinach, radishes, and peas, can be planted with slower-growing crops such as broccoli or peppers that will not need the space until the early vegetables have been harvested.
“Potting up”
Proper planting is the first step to ensuring your plant gets off to a strong start.
Base the number of plants on the size of the pot. Allow at least 6 inches for each of most perennial flowers, herbs, and sedums. Select shrubs that will naturally stay the appropriate size for the container. Check the seed packet or plant tag for information such as how much sun and space your plant needs.
Avoid repotting during extreme weather conditions. If you must repot when the weather is hot and dry, you will have the best results early or late in the day when temperatures are cooler. When the weather is frosty, wait until the soil is thawed.
Potting soil should be moist when planting. If the soil is dry, add water to it before adding the plant. If the plant is coming out of dry soil, put its roots in a bucket of water for a few minutes before transplanting.
Fill container with planting medium to within 1” of the lip of your container. There should be room at the top so water doesn’t run off during watering, but not too much room which can allow problems such as fungus or moisture-loving diseases because of reduced air circulation
After planting, water thoroughly.
Watering
Apply water so that water comes out the bottom of your container to be sure you have saturated the soil. Then don’t water again until the top 1-2” of soil are dry before watering again. Water consistently. Irregular watering can cause growth spurts where the flesh of the fruit will take up water faster than the skin can grow to accommodate. This causes cracking.
Container Garden Problems and Solutions
Problem -Too wet
Solutions: Unless you are growing pond plants, your planter should have one or more drain holes in the bottom.
Test soil moisture before watering.
Use planting media made for planting in pots for best results.
Problem -Overheating: May occur because direct sunlight heats the soil too much, or because the container is dark in color. Overheating can drastically damage the roots.
Solutions:
1. Use light-colored planters. Choose containers made from wood or resin over metal and ceramic.
2. Move the containers into a shady area or a location with indirect sunlight.
Put a shield between the sun and the planter such as a sheet of plywood, decorative panel, or a light blocking curtain, shade cloth, or screen.
Problem -Freezing: Just like container plants dry out faster in the summer, they also freeze faster in the winter.
Solution-Annual and Tender Perennial Plants that don’t tolerate freezing should be moved inside the house or garage where temps don’t get below freezing. Place them away from heaters or drafts to avoid temperature change stress. For best results, they should have light from a window or artificial light.
To protect tender plants from night temperatures when the daytime temps are sufficient, you can use a “Frost Blanket” or “Horticultural fleece” overnight. Damp soil holds heat better than dry soil so make sure the soil is not too dry. Winter watering is best done in the morning when temps are above freezing, but don’t overwater.
Solution -Perennial Plants -For container gardening, it is suggested that plants selected be rated to two USDA zones colder than the actual climate. For example, if you garden in Zone 6, the shrub should be able to withstand winters in Zone 4. If it’s not that hardy, plan to move it into a cold but sheltered space for the winter. Containers are less insulated than the ground. The smaller the pot, the quicker it will freeze through. Adding insulation to planters will help protect the plants’ roots from freezing damage.
The container must be suited to the climate, as well. In cold-winter areas, it should be frost-proof, so that it won’t crack or break as temperatures fluctuate.
Problem -Worn-out Soil - As the plant grows, it uses the nutrients in the soil which will need to be replaced over the years.
Solution -Along with fertilizing, add compost, mulch or fresh soil every year or two, or even replace all of the old planting media if necessary.
Right Gardener, Right Garden
No matter what type of gardening you do, it takes time and attention. While some styles are less work, there is no such thing as a foolproof plant or gardening system. No matter what you do, some plants will thrive and some will not. Perhaps that makes the successes so much sweeter.
Choose the garden that works best for you. Don’t like to water? Choose succulents and other drought-resistant plants. Don't have a lot of extra cash? Make your containers out of recycled or found items or search yard sales and thrift stores. Just remember, “Right Plant, Right Place, Right Purpose.”
Container Gardening for Pollinators
Any type of garden you choose (vegetables, ornamentals, waterwise, natives, or whatever) can benefit pollinators.
1. Select a site that is sheltered from the wind and receives at least 4 hours of sunlight per day.
2. Select plants to ensure a continuous sequence of bloom from early spring through fall.
3. Incorporate native plants to improve the odds of attracting the broadest range of insect pollinators.
Vegetables for Container Gardens
Leafy greens: Vegetables like lettuce, spinach, and kale are particularly suited to urban gardens confined to small spaces. Leavy greens prefer less sun than other vegetables. (So do peas) Their pots should be in part of the balcony that receives less direct sunlight (or behind taller sun loving plants like tomatoes).
Herbs: Basil, cilantro, oregano, rosemary, sage, and thyme are all easy to keep contained in a balcony herb garden. Snip off fresh leaves as you need them. Perennials like chives, oregano, thyme, rosemary and sage will come back every year.
Vegetables: Cucumbers, eggplant, tomatoes, peppers, small squash, and certain types of beans all grow well in pots on a balcony or porch. Use tomato cages, the balcony railing, or take advantage of vertical space by using a trellis, poles, or vertical net to grow vines.
The basic rule for deciding which edible crops to plant is to grow what you like to eat and what your growing conditions allow. You have control of the soil, so light is the most limiting factor. Most vegetables require a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight a day. Leafy vegetables (lettuce, spinach, chard and various other greens) can tolerate more shade than root crops (beets, carrots, potatoes). Fruiting crops (tomatoes, peppers) will not thrive at all in a shady spot. It is important to grow varieties adapted to our cool, cloudy climate, especially those of heat-loving crops such as tomatoes and peppers.
Vegetable Growing Tips:
· Beans and peas: Plant one sprouted seed or seedling in a 5-gallon container for best results. Provide a pole or trellis for pole beans and peas.
· Beets: Choose a container at least 12 inches deep.
· Carrots: Choose a shorter carrot variety and plant in a container at least 12 inches deep.
· Cucumbers and summer squash: For best results, choose a bush variety rather than a vine variety. A pole or trellis in the pot will help support the plant and allow air to flow around the leaves.
· Herbs: Many herbs grow well in containers, including basil, chives, cilantro, mint, oregano, parsley, sage and thyme.
· Peppers: All peppers like to have support, but it is especially important for varieties that produce large peppers. Use a stake or tomato cage to keep them upright.
· Potatoes: Containers should be at least 18 inches wide and 3 feet deep to allow the most potatoes to grow. Look for varieties of certified seed potatoes that mature in 70 to 90 days.
· Radishes: Containers 4 to 6 inches deep work well for this cool-season vegetable that grows quickly.
· Salad greens: These cool-weather vegetables can be grown from spring to fall, but may need shade during the heat of the summer. Cut the outside leaves when young and they will grow back for another harvest.
· Tomatoes: For best results, plant varieties designed for containers. They may have the word dwarf or patio in their name. Provide extra support with a stake or tomato cage.
Appendix - Plant Combination Examples:
Native Shrub and Groundcover Mix -Wood Sorrel (Oxalis oregana), Red Columbine (Aquilegia formosa), Scarlet Strawberry (Fragaria virginiana), or others, can be planted as a ground cover under a shrub such as Blueberry, flowering currant (Ribes sanguineum), , or goat's beard plant (Aruncus dioicus).
Shrub and Groundcover Shade Mix -Fragrant Sweet Box (Sarcococca ruscifolia), Japanese holly fern Cyrtomium falcatum), or Japanese kerria (Kerria japonica ‘Picta’) underplanted with ground covers such as Common oak fern (Gymnocarpium dryopteris or disjunctum), Persian violet (Cyclamen coum), Ivyleaf cyclamen (Cyclamen hederifolium)
Native “Bright Shade” Mix Combine native bulbs and amid ground covers such as Evergreen redwood sorrel (Oxalis oregana), Starflowered False Solomon's Seal (Maianthemum stellatum), Pacific Bleedingheart (Dicentra Formosa), or Tolmiea menziesii (Piggy-back Plant).
“Bright Shade” Mix Combine native Aquilegia (Wild Columbine), Coral Bells Heuchera spp.), Hardy Fuchsia (Fuchsia magellanica), Coast fawn lily (Erythronium revolutum),
“Full Shade” Mix Combine Hosta, Japanese Painted Fern (Athyrium niponicum var. pictum), Hellebore, Lungwort (Pulmonaria spp) Persian violet (Cyclamen coum), Ivyleaf cyclamen (Cyclamen hederifolium)
Native “Full Shade” Mix Evergreen huckleberry (Vaccinium ovatum), Red Huckleberry (Vaccinium parvifolium ), Cascade (Low) Oregon grape (Mahonia nervosa), or Sword fern (Polystichum munitum) with groundcovers such as Evergreen Violet (Viola sempervirens), Yellow Wood Violet (Viola glabella), Foamflower (Tiarella trifoliata), Wood Sorrel (Oxalis oregana), and Common Oak Fern (Gymnocarpium dryopteris or disjunctum),
Decorative Cascading Mix Use upright flowers like hollyhock or shrubs like Rosemary with cascading plants like creeping thyme, creeping phlox, or sedums.
Hummingbird Mix- Goat's Beard (Aruncus dioicus), Red Columbine (Aquilegia Formosa), and Harebell (Campanula rotundifolia). (Base the container size on the Goat's Beard. The columbine and harebell will tolerate the “understory” position. Goat's Beard needs a container that can hold a 6-foot-high plant unless you choose a dwarf variety.)
Native Rock Garden Mix- Broad-leaved Stonecrop (Sedum spathulifolium), Oregon Stonecrop (Sedum oreganum), Cream stonecrop (Sedum oregonense), Spring Gold (Lomatium utriculatum), Henderson's Shooting Star (Dodecatheon hendersonii), Coastal Wallflower (Erysimum capitatum), White Yarrow (Achillea millefolium), etc.
References:
https://drbalcony.com › understanding-balcony-load-limits
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